How the boneless wing became a tasty culinary lie

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NEW YORK (AP) One day in 2020, at the pandemics height, an earnest-looking man with long hair the color of Buffalo sauce stepped up to a podium in Lincoln, Nebraska, to addre s his city council during its public comment period. His unexpected topic, as he framed it: It was time to end the deception.I propose that we as a city remove the name `bonele s wings from our menus and from our hearts, said Ander Christensen, who managed to be all at once. Weve been living a lie for far too long.With the Super Bowl at hand, behold the cheerful untruth that has been perpetrated upon (and generally with the ble sing of) the chicken-consuming citizens of the United States on menus acro s the land: a bonele s wing that isnt a wing at all. Odds are you already knew that though spot checks over the past year at a smattering of wing joints (see what we did there?) suggest that a healthy amount of Americans don't. But those little white-meat nuggets, tasty as they may be, offer a glimpse into how things are marketed, how people believe them and whether it matters to anyone but the chicken.This weekend, according to the National Chicken Council, Americans are . So if you ever wanted a deep dive into what it means to eat the wings that aren't and how the chicken wing's proximity to beer, good times and football sent it soaring now's the time. Today's food landscape is brimming with these gentle impostors things we eat that pa s as other things we eat. is a fish that effectively becomes crab or lobster meat for many of us and stars in California rolls acro s the land. Carrots are cut and buffed until their edges are curved and smooth, becoming or, slightly more truthfully, baby-cut carrots. Impo sible Burgers are plant-based delicacies that carry many of meat's characteristics without ever having been near an animal. And Chilean sea ba s"? Not a ba s at all, but a rebrand of something called a Patagonian toothfish. Part of the reason for the rise of the bonele s wing is money. In recent years, with prices of actual chicken wings rising, the alternative became more cost effective Nickeil Alexander-Walker Jersey . The average price for prepared bonele s wings is $4.99 a pound compared with $8.38 a pound for bone-in wings, according to Tom Super, senior vice president of communications for the National Chicken Council, citing the U.S. Department of Agriculture. He calls it a way to move more bonele s/skinle s breast meat that continues currently to be in ample supply.While many wing consumers argue that the wing needs a bone to impart a special taste, the ongoing succe s of the bonele s wings has proven there are plenty of bonele s wing diners, Super said in an email. Why? Part of it is because bonele s wings the quotation marks will remain for the duration of our time together summon a powerful backstory.Youre a sociating it with the Super Bowl and parties and fun, so you transform the perception of the product, says Christopher Kimball, founder of Christopher Kimballs Milk Street, a company whose magazine and instructional TV show help people cook and teach them about food.Most people have no idea where any of this stuff comes from, Kimball says. You can blame the Lonzo Ball Jersey food companies, but were buying it. We accept them embrace them, even. And what does it really matter, you say? They're delicious, they're convenient. So why poke into things that pair so perfectly with beer and make the sports-watching world a better place? Here's one po sible reason: Could they be a microcosm of the national willingne s to accept things that aren't what they purport to be? And isn't that something that this country struggles with mightily, particularly in the misinformation- and disinformation-saturated years since the bonele s wing entered our world?Its not really wrong, but are we tricking people? wonders Matthew Read, who teaches advertising at Le Moyne College in Syracuse, New York, after two decades with ad agencies. He hosts a cooking show on local television called Spatchcock Funk. The wing, he says, "has gone from being an actual part of chicken to being just something you can sauce and eat with your hands.Whether cut from actual flying-related appendages or not, bonele s wings have taken hold. The chicken council, which credits the behemoth chain Buffalo Wild Wings with inventing them, asked wing eaters in 2018 which kind of wings they preferred, and 40% placed themselves on Team Bonele s. Previous years were even higher.Christensen, a chemical engineer by day, has been on his crusade for years. It began when he was in college, and a group of friends had all just split with their girlfriends. Suddenly they had extra money and time, so they started going to wing restaurants three times a week. He began noticing how many bonele s wings were ordered with no sense that they weren't what they purported to be. A semi-comedic cause was born. I'm looking around and saying, `Why doesn't anybody care?' he said in an interview this week. He has done informal surveys, accosting people about their wing habits, including at one recent college football game in Ohio. The vast majority of people have no clue. Most people think its part of the wing. Some think its part of the thigh. A small group realized that it was from the chicken breast.His theory: Generations that grew up on chicken nuggets turn to bonele s wings as a way of allowing themselves to continue those eating habits. They get to pretend they're eating like adults, he says.Could the very definition of the word wing be changing? Many wing places now offer a cauliflower wing alternative, whose only relationship with an actual wing is the sauce. And some vegan wing recipes even suggest inserting a popsicle stick into the cauliflower to approximate a chicken bone.Our idea of what a wing is comes from what were told were eating, says Alexandra Plakias, who teaches at Hamilton College in New York and is the author of Thinking Through Food: A Philosophical Introduction. These kinds of mini-deceptions that seem fun kind of normalize manipulation, Plakias says. Is a wing a part of a bird, or is a wing a style of sauce? And that ambiguity is where I think we open up room for deception."And so perhaps the language evolves, though there are pockets of skeptics. Personally, I do think it matters. I want to know exactly what it is that Im ordering and whats in my food," says Natalie Visconti, 20, of Bridgewater, New Jersey, a sophomore at Penn State University and a self-described traditional wing aficionado. Christensen vows to carry on, and mentions almost in pa sing that he's gunning to become the world's first chicken-wing lobbyist. His efforts have drawn some scorn J.J. Redick Jersey ; people right and left accuse him of carrying a coded me sage about something political. He insists it's nothing more than culinary truth-seeking. Genuinely, I really only care about bonele s wings, he says. "I have one small hill to die on. But its mine.___Ted Anthony, director of new storytelling and newsroom innovation for The A sociated Pre s, has been writing about American culture since 1990. Follow him on Twitter at http://twitter.com/anthonyted in this topic
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